Monday, January 9, 2012

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Etsy Vegan MoFo Fun!

On Etsy, my shop (Knightime Creations) is a member of the Vegan Etsy Team. I am honored to be a part of such an awesome group of creative vegans. To celebrate this, I've made a treasury of Vegan Etsy items for today's post. (I also think I gained 10 pounds just putting it together!)

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

FAE Team Exhibition "Siren Song"

Check out the gorgeous Fantasy Artists of Etsy exhibition, "Siren Song"!



Tuesday, July 12, 2011

My 16th Century Flemish Working Woman's Dress

Mark and I are contracted to play at faires that have Medieval themes and others that have Renaissance themes (usually Tudor), and these faires take place throughout the year, so it can actually be blazing hot and freezing cold during the run of a single faire. (Kansas City Ren Faire, I'm looking at you!) I made a couple of 14th century fitted kirtles to cover the Medieval side of things, but I also wanted an outfit that would both fit in with a Renaissance theme and work in colder weather. Enter the 16th century Flemish dress, which has an under-dress (kirtle), an overgown, tie-on (or pin-on) sleeves, and a partlet (or two!) This outfit is both versatile and attractive (and so much more comfortable and authentic than my too-small Moresca bodice!)

I was greatly inspired by Jen Thompson's Flemish dress, as well as her inspiration, Drea Leed's Flemish dress. Drea has some really great information about how to construct a Flemish outfit as well. My mother is also very good at sewing (and she has a much more reliable sewing machine than I, as well as a serger), so I asked her if she would help me make my Flemish outfit. However, though my mother is a good seamstress, she isn't very adventurous, and decided there was no way she could possibly draft a pattern - she'd much rather sew from an existing pattern instead. Since she had graciously agreed to help me with this endeavor, I reluctantly decided to purchase a pattern rather than use Drea Leed's corset pattern generator, bodice pattern instructions, and gathered kirtle instructions. In the long run, I'm really wishing I hadn't, but hindsight is 20/20 (as we all know). In any case, I think my results were perfectly acceptable.

I started by looking through the patterns at Reconstructing History, and finally narrowed it down to either the Elizabethan Working Woman's Dress or the Netherlandish Woman's Dress. Unfortunately, the front covers of the patterns have not-so-great drawings of historical paintings as opposed to drawings of the dress that will be produced from the actual pattern being sold (or even better, a photo of someone wearing the dress made from the actual pattern!), and I couldn't quite tell which pattern would be more likely to produce an outfit like Jen Thompson's. I contacted Kass at Reconstructing History, and she told me that Jen's outfit was much more English than Flemish (???), and I'd probably be better off getting the Elizabethan Common Woman's Dress. Now, I don't know what the pattern pieces look like in the Netherlandish pattern, but the Elizabethan pattern has an overgown that closes completely up the front (even though one of the drawings on the front shows an overgown that's open several inches from top to bottom) and a partlet that is much simpler, smaller, and doesn't tie under the arms. My mother, my boyfriend Mark, and I started making a mock-up for the bodice piece, using the RH pattern.

Flemish Kirtle Mockup - Take One

Like a few other patterns I've seen, the top edge of the center front curves up. I have no idea what sort of body shape this bodice is meant to fit, but mine isn't it. The upwards curve produced a top edge that stood out away from my bust, and didn't do anything other than look silly. The bodice also seemed a bit short - I'm somewhat pear-shaped, so a waist seam that's too high will make me look like a triangle. We went back to the pattern and lengthened the bottom edge/waistline, brought the front down into a bit lower point, and folded the top edge (neckline) of the front piece down so that it went straight across instead of curving up.

Modified Flemish Kirtle Pattern

Meanwhile, we were also making a couple of smocks out of 3.5 oz handkerchief-weight white linen from Fabrics-store.com. I used Simplicity 2621 for these (and I'm thinking that the drafter borrowed heavily from Drea Leed's Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator). This is not the first time I've made the smock pattern, so I've figured out pretty much how to made it work. I've been using the size 10 pieces for the body of the smock and the size 16 sleeve pieces. It produces a smock that's fairly fitted through the bust and flares out a bit from there. I also decreased the amount of tapering that the sleeves do, in order to have fuller sleeves that can be rolled up.

Making an Elizabethan SmockMaking an Elizabethan Smock

Here's the pieces (minus the sleeves) for an Elizabethan smock. Notice anything wrong? Yup, the back piece is considerably shorter than the front piece. This is what happens when one has been working all day on various items of clothing and has not taken account of the "fold here for shorter smock" notation on the pattern piece one traced. Oops. The longer piece is correct, so we ended up sewing a piece onto the back to make them the same length.

Elizabethan Smock Pieces

The RH pattern instructions are rather sketchy in places, telling the sewer various ways things were done in period, but not always giving detailed directions for each step. Several things were left up to the sewer to decide how to do them, and other things needed to be modified or disregarded completely in order to make the pattern do what I wanted it to do. For the skirt pleats (in both the kirtle and overgown), I chose to make double box pleats, since I wanted the skirt to poof out as much as possible and also because the '"5 inches of fabric = 1 inch of pleating" meant that my 2 back skirt panels would condense almost perfectly to the bodice back waist measurement.

Double Box Pleats - Ready To Sew!

Here's the Flemish kirtle from the back. Ignore the disarray of the skirt (Mark didn't think to arrange it, so it's falling funny) and the wrinkles (this picture was taken on the 4th or 5th day of SCA Lilies War, and it's not the first time I'd worn the kirtle while I was there).

Flemish Kirtle - Back View

Here's the Flemish kirtle from the front. I'm not happy with the way it wrinkles under the bust, but it's too late now to sew boning between the outer and inner layers of fabric, so I think I'm just going to sew several strips of boning to the inside of the inner layer and just try to make the stitches as invisible as possible. I did use boning at the side seams, which helps some.

Flemish Kirtle - Front View

Remember the pattern discrepancies I mentioned earlier? They continued to the overgown as well. The side seam of the overgown front piece is 2/8" or 3/8" longer than the side seam of the overgown back piece, the armholes are very oddly shaped and don't lie flat against the body (mine, anyway), and one side of the skirt pattern piece is an inch shorter than the other side. We were too busy making new pattern pieces and pinning (and re-pinning) mockups to get pictures of this stage.

The overgown pattern piece in the Elizabethan Commonwomen's Outfit from Reconstructing History laces completely closed in the front, so I had to make several mockups to get the correct opening at the front for my Flemish dress. Looking at this makes me think I could have just used one of the vest patterns my mother was so fond of making 10 years ago! *laugh*

Flemish Overgown Bodice Mockup

Here's the best mockup laced over my kirtle. It's puckering a bit more than I'd like, but it'll do. I'm using purple ribbon to lace it up because it's the best we had (we later bought some nice gold grosgrain ribbon).

Flemish Overgown Bodice Mockup Laced On

I wasn't quite sure how I wanted to lace the overgown at first. I'd considered metal rings, but decided to use blue cord since I had originally wanted the overgown to be reversible, and cord could be sewed between the inner and outer layers of the bodice easily by machine. Also, the blue cord pretty much disappears against the blue of the kirtle, which is nice.

Here are the loops tacked onto the outer bodice layer, which is ready to be sewn to the lining and then turned right side out (which will then make the loops stick out instead of in).

Flemish Overgown Bodice Piece With Loops Tacked On

Here's the finished Flemish gown! I chose to make the sleeves tie-on instead of pin-on, since I really liked the way the ribbons look. The sleeves are reversible - green on one side (to match the overgown) and blue on the other (to match the kirtle). I chose to make the overgown not be open the whole way down, since I really liked the way Jen Thompson's version looked. Pardon the lack of a partlet - I've still got to draft a pattern for it and make it, though that should happen very soon (I want to have it ready by Pennsic).

Flemish Dress - Front ViewFlemish Dress - Skirt Tucked UpFlemish Dress - No SleevesFlemish Dress - No Sleeves, Skirt Tucked UpFlemish Dress - Back View

Here's my Flemish dress from the side. Jen Thompson discusses the possibility of wearing a bumroll with her dress as a means to give the very full back seen in some period paintings. I found that 3 layers of double box pleats (the overgown lining was pleated inwards instead of outwards) produces a very satisfactory poof. I'm hoping it will still look like this after a full season of washing and wear.

Flemish Dress - Side View


Unlike the pattern for my dress, the pattern for Mark's tunic was decent (Reconstructing History's 12th-16th Century Peasant Man). The only thing we had to fix were the sleeves, which were both too long and too tapered. The good thing was that by shortening the sleeves, we also fixed the tapering problem.

Here my mother models Mark's tunic. She's a little bit shorter than he. *grin*

Medieval Man's Tunic (modeled by my mother)

I should mention that I'm aware that my choice of color combination may not be completely period-accurate, but Mark and I have been using blue, green, and gold as the more-or-less official colors of our band (the Tulstin Troubadours). I designed our outfits to use those colors and coordinate so as to be a band uniform of sorts. His green tunic will also have blue linen stockings, and we're both going to have blue hoods lined with gold (mine will be a liripipe hood to go with my 14th century fitted kirtles). All of our garb uses 5.3 oz. mid-weight (IL019) cobalt blue, emerald green, and mustard yellow linen from Fabrics-store.com. My smocks are 3.5 oz handkerchief-weight (IL020) bleached white linen, as will my partlet be once I make it. The black partlet will be made from 7.1 oz heavy-weight (4C22) black softened linen (I'm going for as much warmth as I can get - I might possibly use the linen as lining and do the outer fabric in black velvet if I can find some for cheap.)

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Fantasy Artists of Etsy Exhibition - Return to Renaissance

The Fantasy Artists of Etsy team have done a gorgeous exhibition filled with Renaissance-themed creations! Check it out!

Monday, January 24, 2011

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Fitted Kirtles In Action!

I've just uploaded three pictures to my Flickr photostream that show my cream-colored and parti-colored kirtles "in action"; the parti-colored is worn at the Kansas City Renaissance Faire and the cream-colored is worn at last year's Pennsic. Click on any to see them full size.

April & Mark at KCRF 2010

April, Mark, & Aaron at KCRF 2010

April & Mark at Pennsic 2010

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Black Friday - Cyber Monday Sale!

Looking for a great deal on jewelry and other fun stuff? Use the code BlackCyberBonanza to get 10% off in my Etsy shop between Black Friday (Nov. 26) and Cyber Monday (Nov. 29).

Sunday, October 24, 2010

New Etsy Treasuries!

My Arwen headdress has been featured in two gorgeous fantasy treasuries - "My Dream Wedding" by Magilicuty and "Woodland Chic" by my friend and fellow Etsy Austin member Gypsyharte!

I've also been having fun making bunches of new treasuries, so here they are!

Deep Ocean - "A woman's heart is a deep ocean of secrets." - Gloria Stuart

Geeks In B&W - Geeks in Black & White! Science, math, grammar, sci-fi, etc.

"Don't Worry. I'm The Doctor" - Inspired by the awesomeness that is Dr. Who.

The Doctor Is In - More Geek Doctors! Doctors Who, Horrible, House, Brown, Tam, and more!

Looks Tasty...But Don't Eat! - Man, these creations look tasty...but don't eat them!

Friday, September 10, 2010

Giant Parti-Colored Kirtle Of Doom!

O.K., so I didn't get the kirtle finished in time for the first weekend. It's looking like it's going to be ready for the second! (Of course, since I didn't have it ready for the first, I ended up borrowing my boyfriend Mark's one extra set of garb for this past Monday, and went to faire as a boy.) *grin*

Here it is, all laid out, pinned, and ready to be sewn (except the sleeves, which I fitted onto myself).
Giant Parti-Colored Kirtle Of Doom!

I got no sleep last night whatsoever, opting instead to watch many, many episodes of "Dharma & Greg" and sew buttonholes. These are my very first hand-stitched buttonholes, so I think I did ok for a first try. I had Mark pin me into the dress to figure out where the buttons should go, since my measurements must have been quite off somewhere, and thus the really crooked row of buttons. I made the buttonholes as straight and as evenly spaced as possible, hoping to make up for the randomness of the buttons.

Parti-Colored Kirtle Of Doom! (Close-Up)

Here's the (almost) finished kirtle! The bottom edge isn't hemmed yet (if you look closely, you can see pins), and I think I'm going to make a very, very small hem on the sleeves (to hide the machine zig zag edge). Since it buttons instead of laces (like my natural-colored kirtle does), it's not *quite* as tight as I'd like, so I'm thinking about sewing some minimal supportive padding in the bust area, just to help prevent sagging.

Parti-Colored Kirtle Of Doom! (Almost Finished!)

By the way, I'm using 3.5 oz. handkerchief-weight linen from Fabrics-store.com. I used a mid-weight linen for my cream-colored kirtle, and I like the way it drapes much better, though the part-colored kirtle is a bit better when it's a bajillion degrees outside. *grin*

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

In Which I Express My Affinity For Parenthetical Statements

It's going to be a long night. and I spent a lot of time today (technically yesterday) practicing music and learning new songs for Kansas City Renaissance Festival (for which we're leaving this Thursday night). Since we've got a 3 day weekend coming up, and I'll jump at the chance to *not* wear my too-small-and-therefore-tight-and-uncomfortable Moreseca bodice (it works better when it's cold out), I've decided to go ahead and use the 3.5 oz. handkerchief-weight cobalt blue and forest green linen from Fabrics-store.com that I've got left to make a parti-colored fitted kirtle to wear one day this coming weekend. When I'm done, it'll look something like the kirtle on this page but with no hood (yet.) My first kirtle (which I made out of mid-weight natural-colored linen) turned out really good, but I'm going to widen the neckline by an inch on each side, add 1/2 an inch to each front center edge (so it won't be *quite* so tight when I sit), and shorten the whole thing by 2.5 inches since the first one ended up really long (not sure what happened there...) I have all of the green pieces cut out, and now I'm taking a short break to eat the chocolate chip mocha muffin loaf I baked while I was cutting the pieces. Mmmm.

I know, I haven't posted any pictures of my first kirtle. It's because I finished sewing it in the car on the way to Pennsic, and no one has posted any pictures of me from Pennsic (though I *know* there are a lot out there, because people took pictures of us every time we busked). I will get pictures of me wearing it next time I have it on, and I'll get pics of the blue & green kirtle after I'm done with it. For now, I leave you with a picture of the chocolate -

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

"What do you do?" "Oh, I collect hobbies."

A few days back, I answered an email I got from the Austin Crafts For Free group (think Freecycle for craft supplies) from a wonderful woman who had quite a few inkle looms and was not only giving most of them away, but was also offering instruction on how to use them. I sqee'd loud enough to disturb the neighbors (ok, that *might* be an exaggeration), and told her I'd love to have a loom and some instruction. Yesterday, I drove over to her house and met a mother and daughter who were also interested in learning, and we all had a lovely couple of hours of instruction and trying out our new looms. I started with a very basic weave (no patterns yet, though I'm dying to learn how to make some of the ones I've seen), and used the same yarn for the warp as for the weft - a really pretty blue/purple/teal variegated yarn of the plain "Red Heart" variety.


Here's the loom -


Here's my first weaving!




I can't wait to learn and weave more!

More Amelie Treasuries

Amelie is such an awesome movie that I had to make two more treasuries on Etsy!

The Fabulous Destiny of Amélie Poulain, Part Deux

The Fabulous Destiny of Amélie Poulain, Part Trois

Sunday, August 29, 2010

New Collection / New Treasury!

My Beadmaille Mask has been featured in an awesome collection over at Artfire -

What Kind Of Mask Do You Hide Behind?


Also, I've just created a treasury on Etsy inspired by one of my favorite movies -

The Fabulous Destiny of Amélie Poulain

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

We Are The Children Of The Revolution!

"The greatest thing you'll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return."

"Love is a many splendored thing. Love lifts us up where we belong. All you need is love!"

"Days turned into weeks, weeks turned into months. And then, one not-so-very special day, I went to my typewriter, I sat down, and I wrote our story. A story about a time, a story about a place, a story about the people. But above all things, a story about love. A love that will live forever."

Behold - a selection of treasuries that embody the very soul of bohemian ideals!

He loves me, He loves ME and that is worth everything by thesedefineme on Etsy
Truth. Beauty. Freedom. But most of all ... Love. by AsteraPallas on Etsy
One night at The Moulin Rouge by thesoapgoatsoapshop on Etsy
Bohemian... by Nataliaraya on Etsy
{ Master Filmmaker Series: Moulin Rouge Part 1, Costume } by alienlabel on Etsy
Moulin Rouge! by zombiedisco on Etsy
Courtesan by SarahRoseReynolds on Etsy

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

It's Raining Treasuries!

My "Beautiful Courtesan's Wedding Necklace" was just selected to be part of two Moulin Rouge-inspired treasuries - "Truth. Beauty. Freedom. But most of all ... Love." and "He loves me, He loves ME and that is worth everything".


"Love - is a many splendored thing...love lifts us up where we belong...all you need is love!"

Hedgie's Favorites

Hedgie, the official mascot of the Tulstin Troubadours, decided that it wasn't fair that I was making all of these treasuries, and he decided that he wanted to try his paw at making one, too. Here it is - what do you think?

I'm On A Roll!

I'm taking a break from sewing my new fitted kirtle mockup (and apparently taking a break from sleeping as well), and made an Etsy treasury for my nephew, Chase, who is about to turn 1 at the end of this month! He loves monkeys, cars, and soccer.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Brand New Austin Etsy Treasury!

All of my friends have made treasuries on Etsy, and somehow I'd got it into my head that one had to pay money to make a treasury (bid, or what have you). Silly me! I just made my very first Etsy treasury, called "Awesome Austin" - all Austin in juicy orange, pretty pink, and basic black.

"Awesome Austin" Etsy Treasury